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April 26, 2000

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All set to buy a new music system? Then according to Pradeep Pitchumani you should start by first picking a good pair of speakers, and then go in for components that work well with the speakers.

Think that's ridiculous? Not if you take a look at the reasoning behind it. Speakers are components that receive the boosted signal from the amplifiers and convert it to sound. The speaker load is extremely variable which means that different speakers will require different amplifier characteristics.

Furthermore, speakers introduce the most distortion into the system. Except for very expensive speakers, any decent CD player, interconnect, amplifier, or speaker cable will introduce less distortion than the speakers will. That is not to say that the other components will not effect the sound: just that the speakers will effect the sound a great deal more.

So start by finding the speakers that you like and then find the electronic gadgetry that blends well with the speakers.

Starting the hunt!

Make no mistake. It is extremely difficult to select a good speaker that accurately reproduces the signals it receives. Unless you are pumping in a lot of dough, you will have to make trade-offs while selecting a speaker.
Since all low- and mid-priced speakers have flaws, speaker preference will be entirely personal.
Therefore, the best way to select a speaker would be through auditioning.You have to listen to decide.

It's common to find individuals who will largely agree upon the relative merits of an amplifier or a CD player but are at loggerheads when the subject turns to speakers. Moreover, even when two people hear the same system under identical circumstances, their appreciation of the system's balance of strengths and weaknesses may differ. Their emotional reactions may well be radically different, too.

The truly troubling aspect of this oft-repeated observation is not that people react differently to the same musical stimulus but that when several listeners each play music they like on the system, you would think their reaction would be more or less uniform. Not so.
Also an educated listener in a familiar, relaxed environment will be more accurate in his or her assessment than an average of trained and untrained listener in unfamiliar, stressful circumstances.
What this means is that speakers that sound 'great' to your ears may be horrible to mine. Whoever said 'God is in the nuances' hit the nail on the head.

Speaker types

Most stores carry what are called Monopole Dynamic, which is the term given to the conventional front firing speakers. They are speakers that are mounted on the front of the enclosure and wired in-phase. You will see them either in a ported or a sealed enclosure.

The other conventional type is the Horn speaker. These speakers use regular drivers that are located at the base of a horn-type structure. Audiophiles believe that these are the most efficient speakers.

Then you have Dipole Planar, Bipolar Dynamic, and Dipole Dynamic speakers. The science of these speakers is as complicated and convoluted as their names, and generally used in home theatre systems rather than stereo systems.

Based on the size, you have tower or bookshelf speakers. The bookshelf has better drivers and cabinets compared to its floor standing counterpart, but the former is much more expensive.

Don't get bogged down by specifications

Specifications are not critical. In fact, they should be read only after you listen to the speakers. Incidentally, this should be the norm with any stereo system component. The specifics are never directly proportional to what you hear. The prime reason being that each manufacturer has his unique way of writing the component design specifications.

  • Speakers may be 4-way, 3-way, 2-way or 1-way. The number of 'ways' refers to the number of bands the frequency is divided into. A 3-way speaker uses at least three drivers that handle different frequencies such as a woofer (lows), a midrange (middle), and a tweeter (highs). If you are comparing two speakers, one being a 2-way and the other a 3-way, there is no correlation to the way it will sound. A 2-way speaker can sound just as good or maybe better than a 3- or even a 4-way speaker. The speaker drivers, cabinet, and quality of parts in the crossover have a larger effect on performance. So never base a purchase on if the speaker is a 2-way or 3-way or so on.
  • RMS (root mean square) power rating and 'watts per channel' are the some of the many fallacies and misconceptions that plague the world of loudspeakers. Don't go by these numbers. Remember, power does not destroy speakers, distortion does. When the volume is turned up to a level where the amplifier starts to distort (clip), the speakers are likely to be damaged. So it is easier to damage a speaker with a small amplifier than with a large one, because a large amplifier would produce the least distortion. So you need not base your speaker selection on these parameters. The criterion here would be to select an amplifier that has a power rating greater than your speaker's maximum power handling capability.
  • Frequency response is the frequency range that a speaker can reproduce. Most speakers can and do go up to and beyond the 20kHz hearing limit. Most tower speakers go down to 30-40Hz. A perfect human can hear 20Hz to 20,000Hz (20kHz). But, the fact is most people (adults in general) cannot hear up to 20kHz, or below 30Hz. So any decent speaker should satisfy your desired frequency response.
  • Impedance is the measure of the resistance that a speaker puts on an amplifier. So you have to be very careful to match the speaker to amplifier impedance. 8 ohms is the standard, but most receivers are built to withstand impedance loads much lower than that.
  • Don't pay much heed to other parameters such as timbre matching and decibel sensitivity. All manufacturers design their speaker to sound tonally the same.
  • Interconnects and speaker wires can enhance or hinder the system performance. An easy way to pick these accessories is by price and quality. I would recommend Kimber Kable, Straight Wire, Monster, XLO, Esoteric, Liberty Wire, MIT, Nordost, and Synergistic Research.
What to stay away from

Bose, JBL, Polk, Infinity, Eosone, Optimus, Bang and Olfson, Technics, Sony, Pioneer, Fisher, Kenwood, Cerwin, Vega, DCM, KLH, MTX.

What to go for

B&W, ARCA, Cadence DS, Definitive Technology, Sync Audio, Paradigm, Phase Tech, ALP Jordan, Wharfedale, SAX, SRX, Denim, Carver, Mirage, Energy, JM Labs, Pinnacle, M&K, Boston Acoustics, Nakamichi, Snell, Jamo, Lithos, Telome, Mission, AE, Magnepan, Pandam, PSB, NHT.

Speaker placement

If you think buying a pair of speakers is mind-boggling enough, it's not over yet. You now have to position it to get the best out of it. Based on scientific research and observations, hi-end audio manufacturers have come up with different theories for positioning of speakers. One such theory proposed by the Hales Design Group (HDG) sounds very convincing. A good majority in the audiophile community seems to support this.

According to HDG, Effective Loudspeaker Position Formulas would be:
x = (0.277) x (Room Width)
y = (0.450) x (Room Width)
If y (dimension) from above is impractically large, use:
y = (0.353) x (Room Width)

These formulae will always yield effective positions within any reasonable rectangular room. Here is a visual representation.

Guide to buying a music system

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